The Low Down on Seat Height
Mar 4th, 2009 by Leo
So you’re ready to move up to a performance bike but you’re not sure about the seat height. Can I get this lowered? Some manufacturers (like BMW) offer lowered models of their taller bikes. Actually the GS is the only bike I can think of with a lowered option from the manufacturer… For lovers of other bikes, you have to go buy a “lowering link” for the rear suspension and have someone install it for you (which is generally quick and easy once you have the rear suspension off the ground).
Now the RIGHT way to lower a bike is to lower the front and rear the same amount. If you lower the rear one inch, you have to lower the front one inch otherwise you change the steering geometry of the bike. The problem is most sportbikes don’t have enough clearance in the front to lower it more than a fraction of an inch. So what happens if you just lower the rear and leave the front alone? What’s it like to ride a half-lowered sport bike? I rode a 600rr (which is what I normally ride) that was lowered one inch in the rear, stock up front, and here are my personal impressions:
One inch sounds small but it makes a HUGE difference… If you’re on your toes sitting on a sportbike, lowering it one inch might still have you on your toes, but adds some sure footed-ness at stop lights. It also makes the bars sit higher (relative to your body), making the seating more relaxed. You’re still hunched forward, just a little less; the normal seating position is aggressive enough that relaxing it a little still leaves you with a sporty seating position.
In terms of handling, I don’t think it’s possible to scrape the pegs on a standard height 600rr…but I can scrape the pegs on the lowered bike. It still leans over much further than a cruiser, so it’s probably fine in a place like NY, but if you want to go canyon carving then you better stick with the taller setup.
So here’s my verdict. If one inch (or 1.5″) will help you, then I say go for it; get an adjustable lowering link where you can lower it, and raise it back to stock for canyon carving or the track. Leave the front alone, and you can still get an inch or so of ground touching goodness. If you need more than 1.5 inches, then you’re out of luck, look to a shorter bike (the Ducati 696 is so short that there’s a tall-seat option to raise it closer to average height). Fortunately there are plenty of great bikes at many different seat heights. So hope that helps!
Typical Motorcycle Seat Heights (approximate, some differ slightly by year):
- 26.0″ – Harley Sportster/V-Rod
- 29.3″ – Kawasaki Ninja 250
- 30.3″ – Ducati Monster 696
- 30.5″ – Triumph Bonneville (2009)
- 31.1″ – Honda 599/919
- 31.5″ – Suzuki SV650
- 31.7″ – Suzuki Hayabusa
- 31.9″ – Suzuki GSXR 600
- 32.3″ – Honda CBR600RR / Kawasaki ZX-6
- 33.8″ – BMW GS1150
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Don’t forget the Triumph Street Triple. It’s seat height is 31.5″ but feels a little lower due to narrow seat design.
Yeah Ivan, the Triumph Triples are killer bikes – I didn’t realize the seat heights were that low.
For city riding, instead of getting an R6 (same height as the ZX6 and CBR) and lowering it, you’d be better off getting a Triple. And if you still need just a tiny bit of help a smaller rear tire (like a 50 instead of a 55) can lower it a little more than half an inch without having to install a lowering link.
ivan: “Don’t forget the Triumph Street Triple. It’s seat height is 31.5″ but feels a little lower due to narrow seat design.”
Too true. Seat heights by the numbers are helpful, but because of the shape of the different seats, the “true” height, as in how much of your feet actually touch the ground, is best measured by actually sitting on bikes.
When I was shopping for bikes, I easily chose my Honda 599 because I could flat foot it. By the numbers, it’s seat is higher than my Vespa scooter, but I can’t flat foot the Vespa because the seat is wider. I’m 5′6″ w/a 30″ inseam, and finding a non-cruiser bike that I can firmly plant both feet on the ground at a stop was challenging.
If you want to have a bike lowered, one thing to keep in mind is the extra cost. If you can find a bike that fits stock, even if you it’s not your “first choice”, you may find it’s worth the compromise to feel comfortable on it and be “happier” overall. The only bike’s I know of that offer lower seat options stock and without extra charge are the BMW F800S and the new Yamaha FZ6R which starts at 30.9″ and is also adjustable to different seat heights.
If you’re someone with a 32″ inseam or more, you’re golden when it comes to finding a bike that fits. Everyone else, like me, in reality have fewer choices for stock bikes.
@robotribe – glad to hear about your 599 comfort as I ride a 919 and find it, too, great for seat height (although I’m 5′2″ with a 27″ inseam). I had a heckuva time finding the right bike for my frame, but my 919 really does it for me*. However, this opinion is coming from someone who has never been able to flat foot anything… so I still feel pretty comfortable riding my 6′3″ friend’s 1200 Bandit (yes, only getting one toe on the ground at lights).
*Until Honda brings the new CB1000R Predator to the states. Jealous!
@qb9er – I’m glad to have a bike that fits me so well. You’re either more skilled or more tolerant than I am to feel comfortable on those bikes you mentioned. As for the CB1000R landing here in the States, as much as I’d like to see it happen, I doubt very much it will. Seems like consumer/market trends would likely see the latest Hornet 600 come over before the 1000. And even then, I doubt Honda trusts the N. American market enough to buy cool naked bikes to bring that one over.
Words of wisdom, if you lower the rear, lower the front equally. If you don’t, you change the geometry of the steering. You might be ok with it and thats fine, but I bought a bike that was lowered in the rear and it handled like a chopper, didn’t realize it because I had no clue how it was suppose to handle to begin with… Sluggish on the turn and unbalanced.